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Terpsichore in Jimmy Choo : a visual reading of relationships between dance and high fashion economies.

Wongkaew, Manrutt (2016) Terpsichore in Jimmy Choo : a visual reading of relationships between dance and high fashion economies. Doctoral thesis, University of Surrey.

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Abstract

Terpsichore in Jimmy Choo sets up a relationship between high fashion bodies, material/fabric and theatre dance choreographies. It argues that these relationships have been crucial in twentieth and twenty-first century art dance and fashion practices. It examines the complex web of consumption, negotiation and re-appropriation between dance and fashion. It investigates the relationship between performance, shape, form, fabric, haute couture, modern dance and the bodies that set all of these into motion. The thesis includes a series of visual materials carefully tailored to deliver the overall argument of the thesis: a genealogy of high fashion bodies, material/fabric and theatre dance choreographies has always existed. To answer how contemporary dance, a “product” rich in cultural capital, feeds, affects, is transformed and appropriated by the socio-political economy of high fashion, I provide collections of visual materials in thematic groupings which include excerpts from fashion films, advertising campaigns and live catwalk or fashion performances. I use visual analysis, art history, and detailed movement analyses while paying particular attention to textile and costume construction, image composition, and the role of the camera. Whilst movement analysis informs my work in several chapters, other chapters draw upon other aspects of comparative dance analysis. I establish a kinetic language to read fashion performance through modern and post-modern dance choreography. This language can then be used to develop new trends in dance and fashion practice. I argue that fashion choreographies are influenced by shapes, forms, and the mobility of fashion materials. I utilise the concepts of dynamic flow, tensile elasticity and experimental shapes in space in order draw links between the modern dance choreographies of Loïe Fuller, Martha Graham, and Merce Cunningham and current fashion editorials. In later chapters, I engage with how punk aesthetics and attitude in British fashion was appropriated to subvert normative bodily representation in mainstream high fashion. I examine multiple collaborations between fashion designers and established dance companies in order to unpack the negotiations that occur when dealing with corporate art sponsorship. Terpsichore, the muse of dance, inspires these pages. I envision her dancing alongside the models, the photographers; I see her whispering inspirations to the choreographers and fashion designers. I would like to think she choreographs new ways of thinking about dance, fabric and the fashion industry. Her movement is either tensile or fluid, depending on what she wears. Dance scholar Sally Banes (1987) put her in sneakers. I put her in Jimmy Choos.

Item Type: Thesis (Doctoral)
Subjects : Dance and Fashion Studies
Divisions : Theses
Authors :
AuthorsEmailORCID
Wongkaew, Manruttmanrutt@hotmail.comUNSPECIFIED
Date : 29 February 2016
Funders : Self-fund
Copyright Disclaimer : Deposit Agreement between the Author and the University of Surrey 1. Thesis version I confirm that the electronic copy I am depositing is the version of record. This version is as approved by the examiners at the time of the award of my degree. I understand that I can provide additional supporting documentation and multimedia as separate files. 2. Author’s rights In granting permission to deposit the thesis in Eprints, I am also granting permission to make the thesis available on SRI Open Access, the University of Surrey's open-access, not-for-profit repository <http://epubs.surrey.ac.uk>, and the British Library EThOS repository http://ethos.bl.uk, I understand that: 2.1 Rights granted to the University of Surrey, the British Library and the user of the thesis through this agreement are nonexclusive. I retain all rights in the Work in its present version or future versions. 2.2 Work deposited in SRI Open Access and with the British Library will be accessible to individuals and institutions via the Internet subject to the terms and conditions I grant below to the University of Surrey and the British Library and to the users of the thesis. I understand that, through the medium of the Internet, files will also be available to automated agents, and may be searched and copied by text mining and plagiarism detection software. 3. Copyright Declaration. I DECLARE AS FOLLOWS: That I have exercised reasonable care to ensure that the Work is original, and does not to the best of my knowledge break any UK law or infringe any third party's copyright. If my thesis does include any substantial subsidiary material owned by third-party copyright holders, I have sought and obtained permission to include it in any version of my Work available in digital format and this permission encompasses the rights that I have granted to the University of Surrey and to the British Library. I understand that ensuring that the thesis abides by UK copyright law and does not infringe any third party copyright is my own responsibility and that the University of Surrey is not liable in case of copyright infringement. If permission has been necessary to reproduce any third party material, I supply the relevant documents. By uploading this form I agree that:  my thesis does not to the best of my knowledge infringe any other Intellectual Property Right or contain any confidential material.  if I have requested that this thesis is restricted for a specific embargo period, it is my responsibility to review any pending commercial, IPR or confidentiality issues affecting online availability of the thesis at the end of the embargo period, and to request an extension via the University Library if this is required. I understand that neither the University of Surrey nor the British Library have any obligation to take legal action on behalf of myself, or other rights holders, in the event of infringement of intellectual property rights, breach of contract or of any other right, in the Work. I understand that the University of Surrey Library can remove the thesis from view if they receive a complaint that the thesis infringes intellectual property rights or moral rights of a third party or if it is offensive or unacceptable in some other way. (See University of Surrey Take-Down Policy)
Contributors :
ContributionNameEmailORCID
Thesis supervisorDodds, SherrilUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Thesis supervisorFensham, RachelUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Thesis supervisorBlanco-Borelli, MelissaUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Uncontrolled Keywords : Dance, Fashion, Visual Reading, Choreography, Visual History, Fashion Economies, Punk, Art Sponsorship, Costume, Laban, Movement Analysis, Visual Analysis, Fashion Films, Fashion Photography, Catwalk, Performance, Loie Fuller, Flow, Martha Graham, Elasticity, Merce Cunningham, Shapes, Forms, Motion, Fabric, Nick Knight, Fashion Consumption, Fashion Promotion, Fashion Advertising.
Depositing User : Manrutt Wongkaew
Date Deposited : 01 Mar 2016 12:24
Last Modified : 01 Mar 2016 12:24
URI: http://epubs.surrey.ac.uk/id/eprint/809818

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